2010 KØS, Strange Antenna ChallengeTM

Hosted by Erik Weaver nØew and Dwayne Walker wb5plj,

Event Dates: May 29-31, 2010


UPDATED: 18 October 2009

Here is what other radio amateurs have been up to this year!:

...well, none yet, but this is were you'll find them!

You may participate several ways in the Strange Antenna ChallengeTM

  1. Work the primary KØS station run by Erik nØew and Dwayne wb5plj; or
  2. Work one of the various "Satellite Stations" scattered throughout the country. Foreign stations may also become a "Satellite" but none has yet done so; or
  3. Run your own "Satellite Station" which is tons of fun, educational, and provides you an opportunity to generate media and pubic attention for your local ham radio club/enthusiasts. Full details are on this web site, but the basics are simple enough...

 

Antenna Rules:

  1. KØS stations* may not use wire antennas;
  2. KØS stations* may not use metal pipe antennas.
  3. NON-KØS stations use whatever antennas they wish!
* This includes all satellite stations as well as the official K0S special event station.

    To clarify somewhat by example, if one of us were to bring a large tent, we could fly the entire tent as an antenna, but we could not just pull out its longest metal poles and use them as antenna elements. If there is a basket ball hoop on-site, we can use that, but we couldn't just bring the main supporting pipe and use that as a vertical element. You have to use your common sense. We cannot identify every possibility out there... just don't use plain ol' wire or pipe. Otherwise we'd just be able to go buy long lengths of copper pipe and use them as an antenna (which would work great, of course). But what would be the fun in that? That is a normal antenna, not a strange antenna!

    Please remember that mobile stations are not in and of themselves "strange" nor are maritime mobile stations. Now if you are using the transport itself....

    If you look through the previous years events you find a variety of strange antennas, including my painting easel dipole. I worked Alaska through Mexico with this antenna at 100 watts. The tape measure dipole easily worked Europe, also at 100 watts, and most notably Kygyzstan, which is along China's western border. These "antennas" offer just a taste of the possibilities.

      ...If it is metal...

                                 ...If you can tune it...

...You too can make contacts!

    We'll look for you on the air. We really hope you try your own "strange antenna" because it really is a whole lot of fun! If you are organizing a larger club function around this idea it provides a great opportunity to increase interest in your club. Let the media know what you're doing (preferably a few days in advance). If it is a slow news day in your area of coverage you stand a better than average chance of getting some media attention.

    USA stations must observe FCC regs: Your-Call "Slash" KØS (e.g.: Callsign / KØS)

 

Here are some files you may find useful....

 

Basic Connections

We typically connect to the Strange Antenna with a short length of wire using hose clamps to press the tips of the wire against the metal. Anything that firmly presses the end of your connecting wire to bare metal may work. C-clamps have also been used, and clearly, if you may connect to the metal object using a screw or bolt you will almost always obtain an exceptional connection.

The opposite end of the "jump wires" / connection wires lead to a home-made 1:1 current balun. This is used to help insure the RF is kept off the outside of the coax shielding. We do not wish the transmission line to become a radiating element of the antenna system. If you don't have a balun, one may be quickly made by wrapping a neat coil of approximately 10- to 20-feet of coax around any convenient cylindrical object (2-liter pop bottles work really well).

Between the balun and your radio station, use whatever kind of transmission line you prefer. Coax is great in terms of being able to use it anywhere and with very little concern as to its routing. Ladder line, which must be kept several inches away from anything metal or magnetic, has incredibly low-loss. For this reason, when possible, we prefer to use ladder line.

Why Use a Manual Transmatch?

We have found a manual transmatch is much more flexible, and offers a wider range of impedance matching ability, than auto-tuners we have tried. It is also very convenient to observe the dual-needle display while tuning up the antenna system. Strange Antennas can be especially delicate in their tuning, so a fine touch is helpful. Also, auto-tuners are often "Go/No-Go" black boxes. If they don't find a successful match, you can't use the antenna system. With a manual transmatch even when you can not find an optimal impedance match you can often make use of a less-than-perfect impedance match. This will not allow one to transmit at full power, but one can in fact transmit at a reduced power output. During an emergency this may be a critical difference. In some cases you may be able to modify the Strange Antenna itself. In such cases you may not need a transmatch if you are going to work only a single frequency, or a narrow range of frequencies. Such careful matching of the Strange Antenna may be either extremely interesting or tedious. Which is simply a matter of personal preference -- one's opinion in other words, so take whichever approach you enjoy, or try them both!

How Do We Use a Manual Transmatch?

Generally we start tuning a Strange Antenna by placing each capacitor in it's mid-position, and then place the roller inductor at one extreme of its range. Shorting out the entire coil, so the smallest amount of coil will be used when we find a successful impedance match, is best. ( If you haven't used this specific transmatch before, open the case and observe which knob settings produce minimum and maximum settings of all the critical components. ) At this point double-check all your connections and ensure you have the transceiver (XCVR) and transmatch properly connected, and that the proper antenna is selected, and that you are in the "tuning" mode vs. "by pass" mode. If any questions remain as to the proper operation of any of your equipment, find the answers before transmitting!

    Having double-checked our connections, we then reduce power and transmit in RTTY mode while slowly rotating the roller inducting so as to slowly add more inductance to the tuning solution. Watching for a "dip" in the reflected power needle (we are seeking a minimal value of reflected power with a maximum value of forward power) once we see the reflected power drop, we then ever-so-slowly adjust the capacitor's to further produce a reduction in reflected power, while causing an increase in forward power (up to a maximum value equal, or nearly equal to, the current user-selected transmitted power of the XCVR).

    Slowly is the operative word here! If you madly swing the knobs hither and yon you very likely will never see the dip!

    Once we achieve the best result we can find (defined as minimal reflected power and maximum forward power) we increase the transmitted power, and repeat the above steps. Once that results in the "best tune" we repeat again. Increase power, adjust the coil, adjust the two capacitors. Repeat as needed.

    Generally, we start with very low power. Perhaps 5-watts to 10-watts when using a 100-watts XCVR. The second step may have the transmitted power increased to 20- to 25-watts. The third step will bring us up to the order of 40- or 50-watts, and the net step will bring us to approximately 75-watts. From 75-watts, if the tuning process has been smooth and fairly easy, I'll go to 100-watts (my maximum power) but if the tuning has been difficult, or is very sensitive to small changes, I'll increase power to the maximum in smaller increments. Once you have matched the impedance ("tuned" the antenna system) transmit an inquiry: "Is this frequency in use?" a couple times. If you still hear nothing, go ahead and start calling CQ.

    If you observe this "tuning up" process while seeking an impedance match between the antenna system and the XCVR, you will note that you are seeking two simultaneous results: (1) lowest reflected power; and (2) maximum forward power. By observing the dual-needle display it is obvious that a low swr is generated anytime the reflected power is very low. I generally find the reflected power is first reduced, and then the capacitors are tweaked to produce the maximum forward (transmitted) power while retaining minimal reflected power. This is to say, during the above tuning process I am most concerned with maintaining a low-level of reflected power, and not overly concerned about the forward, until I reach the final tune. However, if you are not able to incrementally increase the forward power throughout the tuning process there is a good chance something is wrong or in need of adjustment.

    For those of us using a 100-watt transmitter, any swr value of 1.5:1 or less is quite good. Further, there is so little power difference between 1.5 and 1.3 or even 1.0:1 swr there is very little reason to seek a "perfect" swr. Also consider that our amateur radio equipment is not lab-quality. For example, when we read a 1.3:1 swr, we have no way of knowing whether that is really a 1.5:1 or perhaps a 1.1:1 swr. Nor does it really matter. Most late-model XCVRs have a self-protection circuit to protect the finals from excessive heat. When I find a difference between my MFJ swr meter and that on my Icom XCVR, I trust the Icom's meter.

    When I transmit I want to see the XCVRs power output reaching the maximum (for which I have set it), the swr to be acceptable (anything 1.5 or lower), and the ALC to remain near the top end of it's reading, without exceeding it's maximum suggested limits. (Check your manual for your XCVRs recommended settings.) If the ALC isn't fluctuating in the upper 1/5 of the recommended range I adjust the mic gain until it does.

    Given a sheet of paper and pen to log, now we're ready to play radio!

    ( Usually one of us is working the mic, with pen and paper at hand, while the other enters the log information in the laptop. )

AIM-4170 Antenna Analyzer

The AIM-4170 Antenna Analyzer is reported to have an accuracy of +/- 3% which is much more accurate than the MFJ antenna analyzers which are reported to be approximately +/- 10% at HF and on the order of 20% for 2-meters and 30% at 440 MHz.

    One of the nicest features was the ability to sweep a user-defined range of frequencies at the touch of a button. Sweetness itself I assure you! A comma separated file is also generated at the same time, so once saved under a unique filename, we are able to refer back to this sweep at a future date. Very nice!

    The only trouble we experienced was getting the device to recognize which com port was needed. That was very clunky and was the most time consuming part of using this device. Still, a great time-saver compared to using the MFJ-269 as we had in the past. And as already mentioned, about 3-times as accurate.


Do you see the rabbit

Do you see the rabbit?
A few years ago he came by to inspect our operation...
...finding it carrot-free idled along shortly.


   

 

Tools & supplies we typically find useful for KØS


Event Updates...

This is where we'll post our updates during the special event. We try to show you each Strange Antenna we use, and we try to get an image of it posted while we are using it. But al such updates are subjected to the vulgarities of our memory and ability to sustain an Internet connection! :P


Wraskliey Wabbit

There's the rabbit! Wraskliey Wabbit!


    73 ~ Erik n0ew



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73 de Erik, nØew
© 2002 - 2009 Erik E. Weaver, n0ew
 
Copyright Erik E. Weaver n0ew. Do not use without permission
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